Benchtop tool stands plans

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Folding Sawhorses Downloadable Plan Thumbnail. Drill-Press Cabinet Woodworking Plan. Buy 6- or 8-foot pieces. Use the 6-foot if carrying the wood in a car, 8-foot with a pickup. The top brace is 22 inches long. The bottom is 19 inches long. The 2-by-4 leg braces on the bottom are fastened inside the legs to support a shelf if desired, while the top braces are outside the legs to add support for the top. Tool requirements include a miter saw, a square, a drill, two drill bits, a couple of driver bits for screws, and a wrench to tighten hex bolts used for assembly.

Toss in an impact driver to ease running screws in at the later stages. The stand is designed to be constructed from nominal lumber sizes, so the only cutting needed is to final lengths and angles. Step one, after buying wood and fasteners, is to square one end on each 2-by-6 to have a starting point. If you prefer, ends can first be cut to 10 degrees, the angle that stabilizes the legs front to rear when the stand is in use.

The slight leg splay does a great job of preventing tip-over, even when fairly long boards are planed. Make sure to cut both angles without flipping the board.

With four legs cut to correct length, the next cuts are the 2-by-4 side braces. Cut two top braces. Clear a decent sized work area, and lay out the first three pieces for lumber. Align the top piece with the legs so the degree splay is going to be at the bottom. Align carefully together and mark for bolt holes in the first 2-by-4, making sure it is securely clamped to the 2-by-6 under it.

Drill all three holes in the first clamped-together piece, as the photos show. Drilling depth is near maximum bit length here, so back the bit out and tap it lightly to free it of debris, and to let heat dissipate a little for each hole. A light hammer tap or two gets the bolts into their holes this way.

Alignment is better with tighter holes. Rigidity is improved, too. Bolt the first pieces together, using a washer under both the head and nut. Snug up the nuts, but not to final tightness. Now, move on to the second leg. Use shim stock to make up for the bolt ends lifting the first leg a bit, align, clamp and drill. Bolt together as before, making sure to use washers on both sides. Measure up 10 inches from the bottom of each leg and align the lower brace to the inside of the leg.

Clamp securely in place, and mark for the bolt holes, again in a triangle pattern; three at each end. Place the bolts with washers, then add nuts with washers, and finger-tighten firmly. The 1-by-4 braces come next.

Now, align with the top brace and leg, and screw into place. Note the use of square-drive screws, with pan heads. It is also a mile round trip to a hardware store. The first set of legs gets all four side braces installed. This stand requires basic tools and materials, so anyone can get the job done in one day with minimum effort. We recommend you to invest in the best materials you could afford.

Therefore, you should buy weather-resistant lumber, such as pine or cedar. Always take accurate measurements before adjusting the size of the components at the proper size.

Drill pilot holes trough the components before inserting the wood screws, to prevent the wood from splitting. The first step of the project is to build the frames for the rolling tool stand. Check if the corners are square and align the edges with attention. The next step of the project is to attach the tabletop to the frame of the tool stand. You can either insert screws through the tabletop into the frame, or drill pocket holes through the frame and insert the screws into the benchtop.

Irrespective of your choice, make sure you align the edges with attention.